With an 11-course taster menu and stunning surroundings, the restaurant at Ynyshir Hall in Machynlleth, Powys inspires our reviewer
There’s plenty to recommend the five-star country-house hotel that was the childhood home of Queen Victoria – not least its 14 acres of landscaped gardens, fresh mountain air and surrounding countryside which is among Britain’s most fetching (the nearby Artists’ Valley inspired Led Zeppelin’s Stairway to Heaven).
But foodies will ignore the pastoral splendour and head to the restaurant. Head chef Gareth Ward, named Chef to Watch by Good Food Guide 2015, offers an 11-course taster menu with matching wines. In the ‘not French onion soup’ pre-starter, slow-cooked onions mingle with miso paste, brown butter croutons and pickled shallots, with dashi stock poured at the table.
The pleasing décor, warm service and ceramic crockery painted by the owner, suggest Ynyshir Hall will soon add to its Michelin star and AA 4 rosette. Fern Saunders
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