Chilled-out Cuba

Take in the culture, cars and cigars while the island still feels unique

Atmospheric, friendly, incredible Cuba… European travellers have long felt smug about their unfettered access to this most unique of Caribbean islands because the Americans have had no such fortune. Since the 1959 revolution in Cuba, general tourism has remained off-limits.

But could that be about to change? This year a string of US airports including Chicago and New Orleans began operating charter flights to Cuba. And although travel is still restricted to people with close relatives on the island, or other defined categories, if you've been toying with the idea of visiting while this eclectic and evocative country remains unspoilt by mass tourism, then perhaps the time to go is now.

The ideal place to start, with its mix of colonial architecture, plazas and museums, is the hip and heady capital, Havana. After that, if it's a sense of history and the "real" Cuba you're after, then you'll want to hit the road and visit Trinidad and the coastal Santiago de Cuba, too.

Starting in Havana, culture vultures should head to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes to admire Cuban art or the exquisite Gran Teatro de La Habana for a night at the opera. A walk along the Malecón as the waves crash on to the pavement is a must and don't forget the labyrinthine streets of La Habana Vieja, where a tour could begin and end at the Hotel Inglaterra for cocktails.

After kicking up your heels at a buzzing salsa club, where else would you put your head down other than the elegant Hotel Nacional de Cuba, whose famous guests have included Winston Churchill and Frank Sinatra? Or the Saratoga: overlooking the splendid Paseo del Prado, it has a courtyard bar, a fabulous rooftop pool and iconic rooms.

The stunning world heritage city of Trinidad should be next on your list. Located between the Sierra del Escambray and the Caribbean, and often described as an outdoor museum, Trinidad's colonial courtyards and pretty casas particulares are a feast for the eyes. It's a great place to stroll and watch people – locals love to sit in the plazas and dance on the streets well into the night. The Grand Hotel Iberostar on the Plaza Carrillo at the end of Parque Cespedes is a popular and stylish choice. And for a culinary and traditional treat wander south of the Plaza Mayor to the atmospheric paladar (a privately run family restaurant) Sol y Son: the cerdo borracho (drunk pork), which is grilled and doused with rum and honey, is a house special.

A drive to the far south is worth it to see Cuba's second-biggest city, the diverse and frenetic Santiago de Cuba. Claiming to be the musical soul of the island, it certainly sounds that way: everywhere you go you can hear salsa or folk music ringing in the streets. If Cubano cigars are your guilty pleasure, hire a guide and visit the Fábrica de Tabacos César, a traditional cigar factory. And make sure you visit the Tivoli neighbourhood: worth the climb for the views and the 16th and 18th-century architecture. Get some well-deserved sleep at the Hotel Casa Granda in the historic centre, where rooms are basic but the terrace views superb.

The warmth of the people and the sunshine, those Fifties cars, the feeling that you don't know what you're going to encounter next means travelling in Cuba is a wonderful adventure. And at the moment, there's only one McDonald's restaurant – but you really wouldn't want to go there.

Amy Duff

FACT FILE
Getting there Virgin Atlantic flies direct to José Martí International airport, Havana. Book through WEXAS at www.iod.com/travel (020 7838 5989).
Practical information The official currency is Cuban convertible pesos (CUC). Credit cards are accepted in most hotels but not as much in shops and restaurants. Your airline or travel agency will issue you with a tarjeta de turista to enter the island.
Best time to go Between January and May, when it's warm but not busy with Christmas and Easter travellers.
For more information visit
www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com
www.hotelinglaterracuba.com
www.iberostar.com
www.gran-caribe.com