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The insider's guide to Rome

by Tom Bruce-Gardyne

Getting there British Airways and Alitalia have daily flights from Heathrow to Fiumicino, Rome's main airport, or you can fly there from Gatwick with BA and easyJet. From Fiumicino, there are trains every half an hour for the 35-minute journey to Roma Termini, the city's central station (tickets cost €14, or £12). Most no-frills airlines use Rome's other airport, Ciampino, where a taxi to the centre costs a fixed €30 and takes around 30 minutes.

Business climate As Italy's capital and political hub, with a population of 2.7 million, Rome has a service-based economy whose leading industries include IT and tourism. Among the many Italian companies headquartered here are Telecom Italia and energy giant Eni. Rome is also home to UN agricultural organisations FAO and Ifad, and Italy's film industry at Cinecittà.

Don't miss Strolling round the ruins of the Centro Storico, past the Pantheon and through squares such as Piazza Navona and the Campo dei Fiori. Escape the heat in the gardens of Villa Borghese or graze the bars and restaurants in the backstreets of Trastevere. For smart boutiques, head towards the Spanish Steps, or for antiques try Via Margutta. And for the best view of Rome climb the Aventine Hill.

Etiquette Dress smartly as first impressions count in this land of la bella figura, but be relaxed if meetings start late and over-run. Shake hands and if you speak Italian, which will definitely impress, use the formal lei form at first. Romans like to build a rapport so expect plenty of small talk, possibly stretching over lunch or dinner, before getting down to business.

Culture The Capitolini, Villa Borghese and Palazzo Barberini house many Old Masters, and a major Renaissance exhibition can be seen until 27 April at the Palazzo Farnese. Besides the Sistine Chapel, many of the city's old churches have spectacular frescoes, while for Roman and Etruscan art head for the National Museum of Rome.

Where to stay To make the most of the city stay in or near the centre where there is an eclectic mix of hotels from the grandeur of the five-star Hassler and Hotel de Russie, to the chic Portrait Suites off Via Condotti or the nearby Il Palazzetto. The Radisson SAS by the main railway station boasts an impressive rooftop pool, while the four-star Hotel Ponte Sisto is handy for exploring Trastevere.

Eat like a local The former meatpacking district of Testaccio abounds with good trattorias such as Volpetti and Felice a Testaccio. Trastevere offers Roma Sparita, Antica Pesa and Le Mani in Pasta among many others, while the centre has everything from atmospheric wine bars such as Il Goccetto to the triple Michelin-starred La Pergola.

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