Getting there British Airways flies daily direct from Heathrow to Ezezia airport in Buenos Aires (with a brief stop in São Paulo). Major European carriers, including Iberia, Air France and Alitalia, fly to the capital via continental hubs. A 45-minute taxi ride into the city costs about 100 pesos (£17).

Business climate The capital has bounced back from economic collapse in 2001. A huge IMF loan has been repaid and property, construction and tourism have fuelled a robust recovery. But annual growth of up to nine per cent slipped to minus 0.5 per cent in 2009. Top banks, insurance companies and large multinationals are based in a city of 12.7 million people. Inflation is a scary 15 per cent.

Don't miss The tango—it's an obsession here. Skip the pricey touristy shows and head for La Catedral, a bohemian affair where hundreds of young couples glide around the floor, dancing to eclectic live bands until dawn. Escape daytime crowds by diving into the Palacio de las Aguas Corrientes, a former waterworks. With an extravagant exterior of 300,000 Royal Doulton tiles, the palace is a mysterious architectural gem. And you can't miss La Casa Rosada, from where Evita (and Maradona) spoke to the adoring masses.

Etiquette Porteños (people of the port, as locals are called) are courteous and friendly. Titles are important and if you want to fit in, dress stylishly. Make contacts before a trip; they'll help you wade through heavy bureaucracy.

Culture Make a beeline for the Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, a stunning new art gallery housing the collection of Argentina's richest woman. Latin American and international works are displayed in a modernist building in Puerto Madero's restored docklands. Literary types will love El Ateneo bookshop. Inspired by a Parisian opera house, the store offers a chance for stylish browsing. And opera fans should beg for tickets to the majestic Teatro Colón, reopening on 25 May to mark the start of Argentina's bicentennial year.

Where to stay The Alvear Palace in Recoleta is the grand dame of hotels. And although a tasteful Four Seasons, enjoyed by Madonna, Fidel Castro et al, may be the smartest spot in town, myriad boutique hotels providing bags of affordable style are a better bet. The Mine in Palermo Soho mixes funky retro furniture with clean, contemporary lines. And rooms at the Bo-Bo in Palermo Viejo showcase different art and design movements.

Eat like a local Pizza, pasta and parilla (grilled meat) abound. And locals love international fare, too. Red tuna, smoked pork and lamb are specialities at Scandinavian-styled Olsen while elegant Freud & Fahler is a lively lunch spot offering elaborate dishes at night. A real insider, though, will book a table at a closed-door restaurant, where diners eat in the homes of private chefs. At Casa Felix, Diego Felix serves a five-course pescatarian menu for 12 guests.