Getting there Only two UK airports serve Palermo direct: Gatwick (Easyjet) and Stansted (Ryanair).

Where to stay Try the boutique bed and breakfast BB22, a stylish contemporary conversion with six rooms, WiFi, and optional Sicilian cookery courses. A suite in high season will set you back a very reasonable £150.

Business climate The island's fertile soil and innate beauty are the biggest contributors to an economy largely dependent on agriculture and tourism. Government attempts to introduce economic reform have been hampered by the local Mafia—still Palermo's most effective organisation.

Ice breaker The idea of autonomy was suggested to acting head of state, Prince Umberto of Savoy, by the US in 1945. It has been the political modus operandi ever since.

Etiquette No matter how relevant it may seem, don't talk to locals about the Mafia.

Eat like a local Cin Cin (+39 09 16124095) is a good bet for classic Sicilian cuisine. The name comes from the locals' adoption of the British toast "chin-chin".