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The insider's guide to Mexico City
by Sophie Nicholson

Getting there British Airways is the only airline to offer non-stop direct flights to Mexico City from the UK. Madrid offers the best choice for connecting flights, although a number of cities in the US, Canada and the Caribbean also offer links.

Business climate Most international companies have a presence in the nation's capital. Over the past two decades, Mexico has made progress in changing from an oil-dependent, protectionist nation into a modern, diversified economy.

Don't miss A boat trip in Xochimilco for a glimpse of the pre-Hispanic Mexico City. Float down the remains of ancient canals alongside Mexican families, with entertainment from passing Mariachis. The recently-refurbished Centro Històrico for 700 years of history, including Aztec ruins, Spanish colonialism and Art Nouveau architecture. San Angel for restaurants, a village feel and a Saturday market to pick up souvenirs.

Etiquette Business wear is quite formal. Attempts to speak Spanish are always appreciated, even when clumsy. Don't get angry and always remain polite. Lunch is late: 2pm at the earliest, but can be as late as 4pm.

Culture The world famous Anthropological Museum is one of four museums in the sprawling Chapultepec Park, as well as the Tamayo Contemporary Art Museum, with works by Picasso, Mirò and Warhol. Look out for murals by Orozco, Siqueiros and Rivera around the city, including in the Art Deco/Art Nouveau Palacio de Bellas Artes, where there's also opera and ballet. Check out Rivera and Frida Kahlo's former house and museum in the southern district of Coyoacan.

Where to stay Long gone are the days of 1950s or 1970s relics and nothing else. Hip boutique hotels include Hotel Habita in Polanco, Condesa DF with a rooftop terrace and views of Chapultepec Castle, and the funky W Mexico City, Latin America's only W hotel.

Eat like a local For a modern take on Mexican food try celebrity chef Patricia Quintana's Izote restaurant in Polanco. For down to earth, tasty tacos, El Tizoncito in La Condesa is a safe bet. Foreign cuisine is increasingly popular and, unlike in the past, easy to find, especially in the leafy Condesa district and Polanco.

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