Getting there Ryanair operates daily three-hour flights from Luton from Tuesday to Saturday.

Where to stay To get the most from Fes, stay in the walled Medina (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Riad Fes (+212 35 94 76 10) is a 21-room slice of luxury in the heart of the action, combining Miami chic and Moroccan style. Or try the five-room Dar Roumana (+212 35 74 16 37). Run by chef Jennifer Lapostol and her husband Sebastian, the food is wonderful and the restored building has a tranquillity that belies its location. A Sofitel sits just outside the Medina.

Business climate Fes is booming. Currency restrictions make the flow of capital tricky, but business, especially in new town (Ville Nouvelle), is brisk. Traditional industries include leather goods from the huge local tanneries, and ceramics. Thanks to Ryanair, the tourist industry and the property market are on the up.

Ice breaker One of Morocco's four Imperial Cities, Fes is home to one of the oldest universities in the world.

Etiquette Pick up a phrase or two of Arabic, as any attempt to use it is hugely appreciated.

Eat like a local Check out the local speciality of pigeon pie. The restaurants at the Riad Fes and the Sofitel (+212 35 63 43 31) both do excellent food, while those at Dar Roumana enjoy traditional fare with a twist.